Gymkana - Guide To Avoid Miss-cuts
Written by Matt Shore
Updated at January 29th, 2024
- Key Cutting Equipment
- Universal EZ Installer
- On Board Programming
- Pairing Equipment
- Simple Keys
- Support Documentation
- Universal Remotes
- Vehicle Information
- NASTF Resources
- FAQs
- Latest Updates
- OEM Programmers
- CKE Programmer Manuals (dongles)
- ROKS Box Information
- Programming Advice
- General Key Information
Gymkana's are different in many ways from the original 994 machines that are being phased out.
They don’t require that you change the cutter when going from edge cut to high security, and
are capable of cutting some of the newer keys that the 994 can not (at least without lengthy update
processes).
A few key things to know about the Gymkana and how to avoid miss-cutting keys:
Identifying Miss-cuts Before They Happen
- Unfortunately, there aren’t many ways to know if the key is going to be miss-cut until it's too late. Once an incorrect cut has been made, the key will no longer serve its purpose.
- One way to avoid a miss-cut is to make sure the key isn’t crooked or loose in the jaw.
- Double-check that the key is placed correctly in the jaw and tighten down with the appropriate pressure.
- If you crouch down and look at the key in the jaw from the back, it should be sitting evenly in the jaw.
- If it’s angled one way or the other, it will most certainly be miss-cut.
- There are a few instances where the Gymkana will instruct you to place the key at a certain U-line(e.g. U1, U2) but you might notice the specific key you’re using doesn't lock in properly at the instructed line.
- It’s important that the key sits in the locked jaw position correctly, so adjust as needed and then let the tracer do the work of figuring out where the tip's new position is. (Common issues with SKUs such as the GM Key 750, most bladed Lex Keys, & some edge-cut Toyota keys)
Tracers
- Gymkana's have a very sensitive tracer and it's important to ensure the tracer is free of key shavings or debris.
- Make sure to be very delicate when cleaning chips/debris off the jaw. If the brush hits the tracer too hard, it could cause it to bend.
- If the tracer is even slightly bent, it won't properly relay the exact position of the key in the jaw. If the tracer doesn't hit all the contact points where it thinks it should the machine will provide an inaccurate reading.
- If the machine doesn't give you an accurate key code after the decoding is complete, the key will not be cut to the specifications needed to turn the lock.
- If you decode a key on the Gymkana and it does not provide an OEM key code, the key will most likely not work. See the example below; the OEM key code appears on the top row. If it’s blank, it didn’t decode the key.
Calibrations
- In order to get the best cutting and decoding accuracy out of the Gymkana, it’s important to keep your machine calibrated.
- This process doesn’t take long and can be done by using the calibration tool included in your Gymkhana tool kit and choosing jaw calibrations in the set-up menu from the home screen.
- A best practice is to calibrate your gymkhana at the beginning of every work day to ensure you are getting the proper decades and cuts. The process only takes 2 minutes and can easily be added to your morning start-up routine.
Metal Settings
- On the final screen before you press cut to begin cutting your key, notice the row of boxes at the bottom of the screen (pictured below). Each filled box shows info regarding the cut taking place.
- The first box is your cutting bit (V037)
- The second box is the metal setting (NiSi, Steel, Brass, etc.)
- The third box is the Jaw itself (U-Jaw)
- The fourth box is which line position to secure it at (e.g. U1, U2).
- The metal settings box can be a helpful tool when you know you’re cutting a key blade with tougher metal. It adjusts the speed/rate of the cutting bit to be tailored more to the material it’s cutting.
- The SKUs that benefit the most from this are the VW Keys however they can also be of use for high-security Ford Keys. (*This isn’t a fact, but cutting the affected harder blades under the Steel setting seems to be most promising*)
Cutting Bit
- After many uses, the cutting bit in your Gymkana will begin to dull.
- The duller your cut bit gets, the more likely it is to have a mis-cut.
- A best practice is to replace your cutting bit every other month.
- Visually it’s hard to see when your cutting bit is getting dull, but as you become more familiar with cutting, you will be able to hear the difference as it dulls.
Buffing
- After cutting your key, the best practice is to give it a decent buff with either a buffing wheel or a file.
- If your machine has a buffing wheel use it to clean off any burrs on the cuts and to put a little wear on the key.
- It’s not uncommon to have a fresh-cut key not wanting to turn in the ignition door. This occurs because the pins of the cylinder(s) are used to the original worn key. (Honda key blades and Toyota edge cut keys usually need the most buffing/filing)
Turning Off The Gymkana
- It’s best to shut down your machine anytime you turn it off properly.
- Press the power button on the bottom right of your screen
- Log out
- Press the power button again to power off
- The screen will momentarily go blank, then instruct you to hit the emergency power button on the side of the machine. Similar to a computer, this process will ensure the machine’s software has been shut down properly.
DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR MACHINERY USING THE EMERGENCY POWER BUTTON UNLESS IT’S A TRUE EMERGENCY